Porto Novo in Santo Antão
Porto Novo: The Gateway to Santo Antão
Located on the southeastern coast of Santo Antão, Porto Novo is often the first point of contact for visitors arriving on this spectacular island. While the north of the island is famous for its lush, green valleys, Porto Novo sits in a starkly beautiful, arid landscape that offers a dramatic introduction to the diverse geography of Cape Verde,. As the island's main port city and seat of the municipality that covers two-thirds of the island, it is a vital hub for transport, commerce, and culture.
Geographic Location and Setting
Porto Novo is situated on the dry, leeward side of Santo Antão, directly opposite the island of São Vicente. The landscape here is characterized by volcanic terrain that has been described as "Martian-like," offering a sharp contrast to the tropical vegetation found in the northeast,. The city experiences a hot arid climate, with average annual temperatures around 23.8 °C (74.8 °F). Despite the dryness, the area serves as the commercial center for the southern part of the island, with a population of approximately 16,000 in the wider municipality.
Brief Historical Background
Historically, the settlement was known as Porto dos Carvoeiros (Port of the Coalmen). Settlement in this area began relatively late due to the arid conditions, with the town starting to grow significantly only in the 1910s from a cluster of about 30 dispersed buildings.
- Municipality: The municipality of Porto Novo was created in 1962.
- City Status: The town was officially elevated to the category of a city in 2005.
- Resilience: The region has a history of resilience, having weathered severe droughts and famines in the 19th and 20th centuries, which led to the implementation of public work schemes such as road building to support the population.
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Ferry Connections to Other Islands
Because there is no operational airport on Santo Antão, all visitors arrive by ferry from the neighboring island of São Vicente (city of Mindelo). The channel between the two islands is approximately 9 miles (14 km) wide.
- Route: Mindelo (São Vicente) ↔ Porto Novo (Santo Antão).
- Duration: The crossing takes approximately 60 minutes,.
- Operators: Two main companies operate this route: CV Interilhas and Nôs Ferry (Mar d'Canal),.
- Schedule: There are typically two to four daily departures in each direction, generally scheduled in the morning (e.g., 07:00, 08:00) and afternoon (e.g., 14:00, 15:00), though schedules can change on Sundays,.
- Tickets: Tickets cost approximately 800 to 1,511 CVE (approx. €7 - €14) for a one-way trip, depending on the operator and class,,. Tickets can be purchased at the maritime terminals or online.
Main Attractions and Places to See
While many tourists rush through Porto Novo to reach the green valleys, the city and its surroundings have several points of interest:
- Statue of the Cape Verdean Woman: Located on Avenida Amílcar Cabral, this monument honors the role of women in Cape Verdean society and education,.
- Church of São João Batista: A centenary church that is a central part of the city's religious life.
- Curraletes Beach (Praia de Escorralete): Located east of the city, this is a popular black sand beach known for hosting an annual music festival,.
- Pozolana Deposits: The surrounding landscape is marked by whitish veins of pozzolana (volcanic ash), a natural resource used in cement production.
Activities and Things to Do
Porto Novo serves as the perfect base for exploring the southern and western parts of the island.
- Scenic Drives: Rent a car or take an aluguer (collective van) to drive the famous Old Road (Estrada da Corda) towards Ribeira Grande. This cobblestone road offers spectacular views as it climbs from the arid south into the pine forests and volcanic craters of the high plateau,.
- Festivals: If visiting in June, don't miss the Festa de São João (June 24). It is one of the most vibrant festivals in the archipelago, featuring the "Kolá San Jon" dance, drumming, and a pilgrimage that attracts people from all over the country,.
- Trekking: From Porto Novo, you can access trails leading to Topo de Coroa, the highest peak on the island (1,979m), or explore the dramatic landscapes of Ribeira das Patas and Alto Mira,.
- Visit Tarrafal de Monte Trigo: Take a trip to the isolated fishing village of Tarrafal in the southwest, known for its black sand beach and tranquil atmosphere. The drive from Porto Novo takes about 1.5 to 2 hours through stunning volcanic scenery,.
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Accommodation Options
Porto Novo offers a range of accommodation, from resorts to modest guesthouses.
- Hotel Santantao Art Resort: A 4-star hotel located on the seafront, offering a swimming pool, air-conditioned rooms, and tennis courts. It is considered one of the more luxurious options in the area,.
- Residencial Chez Flor: A highly-rated accommodation known for its helpful hosts and pleasant terrace.
- Nha Casa Porto Novo and Cabo Verde Beach Sport Resort: These are popular choices for travelers seeking budget-friendly lodgings.
- Casa de France: Another guest house option available in the city.
Recommended Restaurants and Local Cuisine
Dining in Porto Novo allows you to taste the fresh flavors of the island, particularly seafood and locally grown produce.
- Restaurante Carvoeiros: A recommended spot to enjoy dinner while watching the sunset over the sea.
- Autentico: Located near the ferry terminal, this is a good spot for a meal or drink while waiting for your boat; it also offers reliable Wi-Fi.
- Local Cuisine to Try:
- Catchupa: The national dish, a hearty stew of corn, beans, vegetables, and meat or fish,.
- Caldeirada de Cabrito: A goat stew often served with beans or yam, a specialty of Santo Antão,.
- Grogue: Santo Antão is the capital of grogue production. Be sure to try this sugarcane spirit, or a Ponche (grogue mixed with molasses and fruit),,.
- Goat Cheese: Often served with papaya jam for dessert.
The Port and Its Importance
The Development of Porto Novo Harbour: From Fishing Village to Santo Antão's Lifeline
The Porto Novo harbour has transformed from a basic anchorage serving a small fishing village into a modern maritime facility that now serves as the only economic and logistical gateway for the island of Santo Antão.
Early History: A Small Fishing Port (Before 1962)
The settlement of Porto Novo started relatively late because of the dry climate on Santo Antão's southern coast. Initially, the area was a small fishing village known as Porto dos Carvoeiros (Port of the Coalmen). In 1901, the settlement had only about 30 scattered buildings, and significant growth didn't begin until the 1910s.
Before 1962, there were no proper docking facilities. Ships had to anchor in the bay of Alto Peixinho, and goods and passengers were transferred to shore using small boats—a laborious and inefficient process that limited the area's development.
The First Port and Municipal Growth (1962–2010)
The year 1962 marked a turning point for the region. The original port infrastructure was officially opened, providing the first formal docking capabilities for the island. At the same time, the Municipality of Porto Novo was created, giving the settlement administrative recognition.
This new infrastructure allowed Porto Novo to gradually grow beyond other settlements on the island. The port enabled better connections and commerce, eventually making Porto Novo the largest urban center on Santo Antão. The settlement's importance was formally recognized when it achieved city status in 2005.
Modernization and Expansion (2012–2014)
To handle growing traffic and accommodate larger vessels, the port underwent a significant modernization and expansion project between 2012 and 2014. The upgraded facility now includes three quays with a total length of 268 meters and a maximum depth of 8 meters. The logistics infrastructure was enhanced with a container park, two roll-on/roll-off ramps to facilitate vehicle transport, and a boat ramp for smaller vessels.
The maritime terminal itself was completely upgraded to improve the passenger experience. The new terminal includes amenities for travelers, such as a souvenir shop, a bar and restaurant, an ATM, and car rental desks, transforming it from a purely functional facility into a modern transport hub.
Current Role and Strategic Importance
Today, the Porto Novo harbour is the single most critical infrastructure asset on Santo Antão. Following the closure of the Agostinho Neto Airport in Ponta do Sol due to safety reasons, the port became the only entry and exit point for passengers and goods for the entire island. This makes it absolutely essential for the island's economy and connectivity.
The scale of the port's operations demonstrates its importance. In 2017, the port handled 301,813 passengers and 134,141 metric tonnes of cargo. The harbour essentially dictates the rhythm of internal transport on the island, with schedules for collective vans (known locally as alugueres) synchronized with the arrival and departure of ferries from Mindelo on São Vicente island.
Beyond passenger transport, the port serves as an economic engine for the island. It is essential for exporting local agricultural products such as pozzolana cement and produce to neighboring islands. Recognizing this importance, the government has planned the installation of a post-harvest center at the Porto Novo dock to further support the agricultural sector.