
Climbing Pico do Fogo
Climbing Pico do Fogo: A Practical Guide to Cape Verde's Active Volcano
Pico do Fogo (2,829 m) is Cape Verde's highest peak and an active volcano on Fogo Island. The hike offers dramatic lava fields, ash slopes, and 360° Atlantic views, but it's demanding and requires careful preparation. Focus on early starts, hydration, sun protection, and mandatory local guides for safety.
Planning & Access
- Starting Point: Chã das Caldeiras village (approx. 1,760 m elevation) inside the 40 km² Caldeira plateau, ringed by 1,000 m cliffs (Bordeira). This is your base—expect ~1,000 m elevation gain to the summit.
- How to Get There: Fly to Fogo's airport (São Filipe), then take a shared aluguer taxi or private transfer to Chã das Caldeiras (1–2 hours, rough roads). No public transport inside the Caldeira—arrange via accommodation or tours.
- Timing: Start between 5:00–7:00 AM for cooler temps (20–25°C), lower sun intensity, better visibility, and return before midday heat (30°C+). Latest safe start: 12:00 PM. Total hike: 4–7 hours (ascent 3–4 hours; descent 1–1.5 hours).
- Volcano Status Check: Always verify current activity via Fogo Natural Park (PNF) or your guide—eruptions occurred in 1995 and 2014/2015; trails may close.
Guide & Costs
- Guide Requirement: Mandatory—no solo climbs allowed. Local guides ensure safe routes, monitor volcanic activity, explain geology/history, and handle weather changes.
- Where to Find: In Chã das Caldeiras/Portela villages, at guesthouses, or pre-book via tour operators.
- Cost: €25–50 per person for a local guide (group shared).
- Organized Tours: €60–100 per person (includes transport from São Filipe, guide, sometimes meals). Book via PNF ecotourism packages (e.g., "Trekking & Hiking / Discovery").
- Rule: Inform someone (accommodation/family) of your plans before departing.
Equipment: Essentials Only
Pack light but prioritize grip, hydration, and protection—the terrain is sharp, slippery lava rock/ash; sun is intense year-round.
Absolutely Necessary:
- Sturdy hiking boots with aggressive tread (no sneakers—sharp lava cuts shoes/skin).
- 2–3 liters water per person (no sources en route; refill in village).
- Sun protection: Hat/cap, sunglasses, SPF 50+ sunscreen (reapply every 2 hours).
- Snacks: Energy bars, nuts, dried fruit (high-calorie for sustained effort).
- Trash bags (pack out all waste—Leave No Trace).
Highly Recommended:
- Hiking poles (stabilize on ash/rock; crucial for descent).
- Light layers: Breathable clothing + windproof jacket/fleece (summit can be 10–15°C cooler/windy).
- Bandana/scarf (block dust/ash inhalation).
- Small first-aid kit (blisters, cuts from lava).
- Phone/camera + portable charger.
Nice to Have:
- Gaiters (keep ash out of boots).
- Spare socks (wet ash soaks feet).
- Headlamp (if delayed past sunset).
Tip: Rent poles/gaiters in Chã if needed; no gear shops on-site.
Fitness & Difficulty
- Level: Demanding—steep, loose terrain; good fitness required (handle 3–4 hours moderate hiking with breaks).
- Experience: Helpful but not essential; prior mountain hikes prepare you for scrambling.
- Altitude Risks: Rare sickness at 2,829 m, but possible (symptoms: headache, nausea). Descend immediately if affected.
- Who It's For: Fit adults; not recommended for young children, elderly, or those with heart/knee issues.
Route Details
Ascent (3–4 hours, ~1,000 m gain):
- Start in Chã das Caldeiras on gravel paths through fertile vineyards/coffee slopes (contrast to barren lava).
- Steep switchbacks on volcanic ash (slippery; poles help).
- Final scramble over massive rocks to summit crater.
Summit: 360° views of Caldeira, lava fields (1995/2014 eruptions), and Atlantic. Explore crater edge cautiously.
Descent (1–1.5 hours, alternate side): "Surf" down ash/gravel slopes—sink mid-calf, glide weightlessly (fun but dusty; control speed with poles).
Terrain Notes: Aa (rough, jagged) and Pahoehoe (smooth, ropey) lava; post-rainy season (Oct–Nov) adds green contrast but slippery mud.
Safety Guidelines
Pre-Tour:
- Check weather (sudden clouds/fog reduce visibility; avoid rain—flash floods in Caldeira).
- Confirm no active hazards via PNF or guide.
On-Tour:
- Stay with guide (within sight)—they know escape routes.
- Hydrate constantly (drink even if not thirsty; dehydration sneaks up).
- Pace yourself; take breaks.
- Sun protection always—even cloudy days burn.
Abort If:
- Exhaustion, dizziness, altitude symptoms.
- Worsening weather (wind >30 km/h, rain).
- Guide's call.
Emergency: Limited cell signal; guides carry radios. Nearest medical help in São Filipe (1–2 hours away).
Alternative Hikes (Less Demanding)
- Pico Pequeno (1995 crater) & Pico Novo (2014 crater): Easy-moderate 2–3 hour loop from Portela. Hot ground—wear boots; no guide needed but recommended.
- Caldeira to Mosteiros Descent: Moderate 10–12 km, 4 hours downhill through lava fields.
- Monte Velha Forest: 9 km, 6–7 hours, 1,050 m gain/loss near Mosteiros—green plantations (banana, papaya, coffee); cooler, shaded alternative.
Best Time & Accommodation
- Optimal Window: Nov–Jun for stable weather; Jul–Dec for post-rain green landscapes (hikers' favorite: Oct–Nov).
- Avoid: Jul–Sep rainy season (slippery, low visibility).
- Accommodation in Chã das Caldeiras: Simple guesthouses/homestays (€20–40/night; book ahead—limited spots). Recommended: Casa Marisa (hiker-friendly, guide arrangements, meals). Basic facilities (shared baths, no Wi-Fi); stock food/water in São Filipe.
- Island-Wide Tips: Combine with Santiago/Brava for multi-day treks. Lava tunnel add-ons need helmet/harness (tour-provided).
Climb responsibly—Pico do Fogo rewards preparation with surreal, safe adventure. Check PNF for updates before travel.
Alternative Hikes for Every Taste
The Younger Siblings: Pico Pequeno and Pico Novo
If you're looking for a less demanding alternative, you'll find it in the smaller volcanic craters:
- Pico Pequeno (formed in 1995)
- Pico Novo (formed in 2014)
These peaks are much more accessible. A circular hike from Portela to both craters takes only 2 to 3 hours and is rated as easy to moderate. Warning: The small crater can get surprisingly hot!
The Classic: Descent to Mosteiros
One of the most popular longer routes leads from the Caldeira down to Mosteiros:
- Distance: 10-12.4 km
- Duration: 4 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate
Through the Surreal Forest of Monte Velha
You'll experience a completely different side of Fogo in the mystical forest of Monte Velha near Mosteiros. This 9 km hike (6-7 hours, 1,050 meters elevation gain/loss) takes you through surprisingly green and fertile areas with banana, papaya, and coffee plantations, as well as agave and eucalyptus trees – a fascinating contrast to the barren volcanic landscape.
Practical Information
Best Time to Visit
For hikers: July to December, especially October and November, when nature is most beautiful after the rainy season and the landscape glows in lush green.
For summit tours: November to June, when weather is moderate and stable. Start early in the morning (recommended between 5 AM and 12 PM) to take advantage of cooler temperatures.
Tours and Guides
Fogo Natural Park (PNF) has adapted its ecotourism concept after the 2014/2015 eruption. Various organized tours are available:
- Volcano climbs with local guides
- Geological excursions through lava fields
- Culture and hiking combinations (often together with Santiago and Brava)
- Special trekking packages under the "Trekking & Hiking / Discovery" category
