Cidade Velha ("Old City") in Santiago Island - Cabo Verde
Ribeira Grande, renamed Cidade Velha ("Old City") in the late 18th century, is arguably the most important historical site in Cabo Verde and a place of outstanding global significance. Founded in 1462 on the southern coast of Santiago, it was not only the first permanent European colonial settlement in the tropics but also the original, functioning laboratory for the Atlantic slave trade and the creation of a new, Creole identity.
The history of Ribeira Grande can be effectively broken down into three distinct, powerful periods:
The Crucible of Commerce and Culture (1462 – c. 1600)
This phase establishes the islands' initial, crucial purpose. Ribeira Grande was established not by accident, but by Royal Charter to serve as the gateway between Europe, Africa, and the emerging New World. The city received exclusive rights to trade with the entire Guinea coast in 1466, making it the central clearing house for human trafficking.
African captives were brought from the mainland, held, and then shipped across the Atlantic. The Pelourinho (Pillory) in the main square—a 16th-century marble pillar—stands as a stark monument where slaves were auctioned and royal justice was meted out.
The high proportion of enslaved Africans (reaching an estimated 90% of the island's population by the late 16th century) relative to Portuguese settlers immediately created a dynamic and complex society. This rapid and intense blending gave birth to the Kriolu language and the foundational elements of Cabo Verdean Creole culture, affecting arts, customs, and cuisine.
The wealth derived from this trade funded grand colonial architecture, including the Nossa Senhora do Rosário Church (built in 1495, the oldest colonial church in the world) and the impressive ruins of the Sé Cathedral (begun in 1556).
Location of cidade vleha on Santiago Island
The Era of Fortification and Attack (c. 1580 – 1712)
The city's immense wealth made it an irresistible target for rival European powers and pirates. This led to a period defined by defense and violence. To defend the trade and its riches, the Portuguese constructed the massive Forte Real de São Filipe (1587–93) on the plateau overlooking the town. This fort was a direct response to rising threats.
Despite the fort, Ribeira Grande suffered numerous attacks. The most famous was the sacking by the English privateer Sir Francis Drake in 1585. These assaults underscored the city's strategic value but also its geographical vulnerability. The French Cassard expedition severely damaged and ultimately destroyed Ribeira Grande in 1712. This event marked the beginning of its terminal decline.
Decline and Historical Recognition (1712 – Present)
UNESCO World Heritage Site
The final chapter is one of gradual decay followed by rediscovery and commemoration. Following the French attack and the ongoing economic decline associated with the lessening of the slave trade, the Portuguese government made the official decision to move the capital to the nearby city of Praia in 1770. Ribeira Grande was reduced to the status of a village, preserving its original street plan and monumental ruins.
Its historical importance was finally formalized in 2009 when the Historic Centre of Ribeira Grande was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This recognition validates its role as a pivotal starting point in the history of globalization, the African diaspora, and the development of Creole culture shared by Africa, the Americas, and Europe. Ribeira Grande is thus a physical archive—a place where the economic engine of colonialism and the resilient spirit of the new Cabo Verdean people first collided. Its ruins tell a story that is foundational to the entire archipelago's identity.