Navigating the Archipelago: A  Guide to Transport in Cabo Verde for Digital Nomads

For the digital nomad, mobility is as essential as Wi-Fi. In Cabo Verde, the logistics of getting from point A to point B range from modern international flights to hopping into the back of a Toyota pickup truck with locals and livestock. The archipelago's transportation infrastructure is a reflection of its geography: fragmented, diverse, and dictated by the elements.

Understanding the nuances of inter-island travel and intra-island commuting is vital for remote workers. The local philosophy of "No Stress" applies heavily to transport schedules; delays are common, and patience is a prerequisite. Here is a detailed breakdown of how to navigate the islands, both generally and specifically for the major nomad hubs.

Inter-Island Connectivity: The Hopper Flights vs. The Ferry

Digital nomads planning to visit multiple islands must understand that Cabo Verde is an archipelago where the ocean dictates the schedule.

1. Air Travel The most reliable method for moving between islands is flying. The domestic airline market has seen changes, but currently, operators like BestFly (TICV) and Cabo Verde Airlines (TACV) run regular inter-island routes,.

• Reliability & Cost: While faster and generally more comfortable than ferries, domestic flights can be expensive for short distances. Prices for a one-way ticket can start around €50 but fluctuate based on demand.
• Planning: Tickets can sell out days or weeks in advance, particularly when ferry services are interrupted by rough seas. It is highly advisable to book critical connections early. Delays and cancellations due to technical issues or weather are not uncommon, so nomads should always build a "buffer day" into their itinerary before an international flight home,.

2. Maritime Travel (Ferries) Operated largely by CV Interilhas, the ferry network connects all inhabited islands.

• Pros & Cons: Ferries are significantly cheaper than flying. However, the Atlantic Ocean can be unforgiving; sea conditions are often rough, leading to seasickness and frequent delays or cancellations,.
• Routes: The connection between São Vicente and Santo Antão is the most reliable and frequently used ferry route (taking about one hour). Routes to more distant islands like Fogo or Brava can be more susceptible to disruption.

Intra-Island Transport: Taxis, Alugueres, and Car Rentals

Once you are on an island, there are three main ways to get around. Note that Uber is not available in Cabo Verde.

1. Taxis Taxis are plentiful in major towns and cities. They are generally new, clean, and safe.

• Identification: Officially registered taxis are typically tan/cream in color, except on the tourist-heavy islands of Sal and Boa Vista, where they are painted blue and yellow.
• Cost: Taxis are not always metered. Short city trips may cost €1.50–€3.00, but longer trips (e.g., airport transfers) usually have fixed rates that you should confirm before entering the vehicle,.

2. Alugueres (Collectivos) This is the lifeline of local transport and the most budget-friendly option for nomads. An aluguer is a shared minibus (usually a Toyota Hiace) or an open-back pickup truck (Toyota Hilux) with bench seats.

• How it works: They operate on a "fill-up-and-go" basis, meaning they do not leave the central station until every seat is occupied. There are no fixed timetables.
• Cost: Fares are fixed and very low, ranging from 50 CVE (€0.45) for short hops to 600 CVE (€5.40) for cross-island journeys.
• Culture: Taking an aluguer is a cultural experience. It is a fantastic way to meet locals, hear Krio music, and see the island authentically.

3. Car Rentals and Driving Renting a car offers freedom but comes with challenges.

• Road Conditions: Main roads are asphalted, but many secondary roads are made of cobblestones (which can be sharp and uneven) or are unpaved dirt tracks.
• Safety: Street lighting is poor outside cities, making night driving hazardous due to potholes and animals on the road. Driving customs can be "unruly" by Western standards.

Santiago (The Capital Hub)

Santiago is the largest island and home to the capital, Praia. It requires a mix of transport methods depending on whether you are commuting in the city or exploring the mountains.

• Airport Transfer: From Nelson Mandela International Airport (RAI), taxis are the standard way to reach Praia or other towns.
• Getting Around Praia: Taxis are ubiquitous in the capital. For daily commuting between neighborhoods (e.g., from an Airbnb in Palmarejo to a coworking space in Plateau), taxis are affordable and efficient.
• Inter-City Travel (Praia to Tarrafal): For the popular trip from the capital to the beach town of Tarrafal in the north, alugueres are the best option. They depart from the Sucupira market area in Praia. The cost is approximately 500 to 800 CVE (€5-8), whereas a private taxi for the same route could cost around 7,000 CVE (€70).
• Car Rental: Renting a car is a great way to explore the interior mountains (Serra Malagueta) at your own pace. However, be prepared for busy traffic in Praia and varied road quality elsewhere.

São Vicente (The Cultural Capital)

São Vicente is small, concentrated, and very manageable for nomads.

• Airport Transfer: The island is served by Cesária Évora Airport (VXE). A taxi to the main city, Mindelo, takes about 15 minutes.
• Getting Around Mindelo: Mindelo is extremely walkable; most coworking spaces, cafes, and restaurants are within a 15-minute walk of the center. Taxis within the city charge a fixed fee of around 150-200 CVE (€1.50 - €2.00) during the day, rising slightly at night.
• Exploring the Island: To visit beaches like São Pedro (for turtles) or Calhau, you can take local buses or alugueres leaving from Praça Estrela. A private taxi to these spots costs around €15.
• The Ferry Connection: São Vicente is the gateway to Santo Antão. The ferry runs twice daily, takes one hour, and is generally reliable, costing about €30 for a return trip.

Sal (The Tourist Hotspot)

Sal is flat, sandy, and purpose-built for tourism. Transport here is efficient but priced for tourists.

• Airport Transfer: From Amílcar Cabral International Airport (SID), a taxi to the main hub of Santa Maria costs approximately €15–18,.
• Getting Around Santa Maria: The town is small and walkable. Taxis are painted blue with yellow stripes. A ride within the town costs roughly €2–3.
• Island Exploration: To visit the capital, Espargos, or the port of Palmeira, you can take alugueres which run frequently and cost around €1 (100 CVE).
• Alternative Transport: Bicycles and quad bikes are very popular rentals here due to the flat desert terrain, though salt corrosion can be an issue for vehicles.

Boa Vista (The Desert Island)

Boa Vista is rugged and less paved than Sal. It requires a bit more planning for transport.

• Airport Transfer: Taxis from Aristides Pereira International Airport (BVC) are the primary way to reach hotels or Sal Rei.
• Taxis: Like Sal, official taxis are blue and yellow. They are found waiting along the main streets of Sal Rei.
• The Quad Bike Culture: Due to the sand dunes and cobblestone roads, many tourists and nomads rent quad bikes to get around. However, for serious transport, official quad tours are recommended as the roads can be uncomfortable and navigating the dunes requires care.
• Alugueres: These exist but are less frequent than on Santiago or São Vicente.

Santo Antão: The Hiker's Fortress

This island has no airport, making its transport dynamics unique and adventure-focused.

• Access: You must fly to São Vicente and take the ferry to Porto Novo on Santo Antão,.
• The "Old Road" vs. The Tunnel: Upon arrival in Porto Novo, alugueres waiting at the port will transport travelers to the northern towns of Ribeira Grande and Ponta do Sol. You have a choice: the fast route through the tunnel or the scenic "Old Road" (Corda) which winds over the mountain peaks. The Old Road is spectacular but takes longer and is not for those prone to motion sickness,.
• Getting Around for Hikers: Transport here is geared towards hikers. Alugueres act as shuttles to trailheads (e.g., Cova Crater). For specific hikes, you may need to hire a "private" aluguer at a higher rate if you are not traveling during peak times (mornings).
• Terrain: The roads are steep, winding, and essentially vertical in places. Driving a rental car here requires confidence and skill, particularly on the cobblestone mountain passes,.

São Nicolau (The Hiking Secret)

For the adventurous nomad, São Nicolau offers a raw experience with rustic transport to match.

• Airport Transfer: The island is served by Preguiça Airport (SNE) with domestic connections.
• Getting Around: The primary connection is between the capital, Ribeira Brava, and the coastal town of Tarrafal de São Nicolau. Alugueres run this route but operate strictly on a "fill-up" basis.
• Car Rental: Because the terrain is mountainous and roads can be rough (especially toward remote areas like Carriçal), renting a 4x4 (like a Duster) is highly recommended. Costs are around €65 per day.

Fogo (The Volcano)

Transport on Fogo revolves around the majestic Pico do Fogo volcano.

• Airport Transfer: São Filipe Airport (SFL) serves the island.
• To the Crater (Chã das Caldeiras): The highlight of Fogo is the inhabited volcanic crater. Alugueres run from the main town, São Filipe, up to Chã das Caldeiras. They usually leave around midday or when full. It is a steep, winding journey essential for anyone visiting the island.
• Local Transport: Taxis and alugueres are available in São Filipe for local trips. The island's road network is essentially a ring road around the volcano, making navigation relatively straightforward, though steep in sections.

Summary Tips for Digital Nomads

1. Carry Cash: Alugueres and most taxis do not accept cards. Keep small change (coins and 200/500 CVE notes) handy.
2. Verify Prices: Always agree on a taxi fare before starting the journey if the meter is not used.
3. Buffer Time: When traveling between islands (especially by ferry or non-major flight routes), never book your international flight home for the same day. Cancellations happen.
4. Embrace the "Aluguer": It is the cheapest and most authentic way to travel. Learn to shout "Para!" (Stop!) when you need to get off.