How to get around Santiago, Cape Verde
Getting Around Santiago: Alugueres, Taxis & Car Hire
How to travel Cape Verde's largest island: shared minivans, taxis, rental cars, and scooters, with costs and practical tips.
Getting around Santiago is a different proposition from Sal or Boa Vista. The island is larger, mountainous, and genuinely lived in, and its transport system was built for locals rather than tourists. The good news is that it works well and is remarkably cheap. The key is understanding how the shared minivans operate, and knowing when a taxi or a rental car is worth the extra cost.
At a Glance: Quick Overview
Main Options: Shared minivans (alugueres or hiaces), taxis, rental cars, and scooters.
Cheapest: Alugueres, typically from around 150 CVE for short hops to 600–700 CVE for Praia to Tarrafal.
Most Flexible: A rental car, typically around €40–€70 per day.
Payment: Cash in Escudos for alugueres and most taxis.
Terrain: Steep, winding mountain roads through the interior; a well-surfaced main road runs north from Praia via Assomada to Tarrafal.
Section 1: Why Transport on Santiago Is Different
The island's geography shapes every journey.
Mountain Terrain. Santiago's interior is dominated by peaks and deep valleys, and the roads that cross it climb through steep, winding passes around Serra Malagueta and Assomada. Distances on the map look short, but journeys take longer than you'd expect, and the views are part of the trip.
A Local Transport System. On Sal and Boa Vista, transport is largely organised around tourists. On Santiago, it's organised around people commuting, shopping, and visiting family, which is why it's so cheap and so authentic, and also why it runs on its own logic rather than a timetable.
Your Three Options. Most visitors combine shared alugueres for long journeys between towns, taxis for getting around Praia and for evenings, and a rental car or private driver for reaching remote mountain villages and trailheads.
Section 2: Alugueres: The Backbone of Island Transport
The shared minivan is how Santiago moves, and riding one is an experience in itself.
What They Are. Alugueres, also called hiaces after the Toyota Hiace vans most of them are, are white minivans that serve as the island's everyday public transport. Alongside passengers, they carry parcels, shopping, and deliveries between towns and villages.
How They Work. There's no fixed timetable. An aluguer departs when every seat is filled, which can take a few minutes or considerably longer. Drivers sometimes circle town picking up passengers before setting off properly. Along the route, you can flag one down from the roadside and ask to be let off wherever you need.
Where They Leave From. In Praia, alugueres heading north to Assomada and Tarrafal, and west to Cidade Velha, commonly depart from around the Sucupira market area and from terminals near the football stadium. In Assomada and Tarrafal, they leave from central squares and terminals. Departure points shift, so ask your accommodation or a local where the van for your destination currently leaves from.
Costs & Payment. Fares are very low, ranging from around 150 CVE for short trips to roughly 600–700 CVE for the long run from Praia to Tarrafal. Pay in cash in Escudos, ideally with small notes, and confirm the fare before setting off if you're unsure.
Tips for Riding. Keep bags on your lap or under your feet, since space is tight. Services thin out in the late afternoon and evening, so plan return journeys from rural areas well before dark. Keep your phone and valuables out of sight in crowded vans and at busy terminals.
Pros & Cons. Alugueres are extremely cheap, low-impact, and a genuine window into island life. The trade-offs are unpredictable waiting times, occasional detours, and cramped seating, especially on longer journeys.
Section 3: Taxis: Convenience in Praia & Beyond
Taxis fill the gaps the alugueres leave, especially in the city and after dark.
Taxis in Praia. Taxis are plentiful in the capital, and drivers often sound their horn at pedestrians to offer a ride. Short trips within the city typically cost around 200–500 CVE. Some taxis use meters, but if yours doesn't, agree the fare before you set off.
Airport Transfers. A taxi from Nelson Mandela International Airport to central Praia typically costs around 1,000–1,500 CVE. Agree the price at the rank before loading your luggage.
Long-Distance Taxis & Private Drivers. Taxis will also take you across the island. A one-way trip from Praia to Tarrafal has been reported at roughly €30–€50. Hiring a taxi and driver for a full day's island tour has been reported at around €100–€140 per vehicle, which becomes good value when shared between three or four people and means you don't have to drive the mountain roads yourself.
At Night. Taxis are the sensible choice for getting around Praia after dark, rather than walking unfamiliar streets. Ask a restaurant or your accommodation to call one if you're not near a taxi rank.
Pros & Cons. Taxis are direct, efficient, and comfortable, with no waiting for a van to fill up. They are, however, considerably more expensive than alugueres for anything beyond short trips.
Section 4: Car Hire & Scooters: Maximum Flexibility
The best option for exploring the mountains and remote villages on your own schedule.
Renting a Car. Rental companies operate at Nelson Mandela International Airport and in Praia. Expect to pay roughly €40–€70 per day depending on the vehicle, from a small compact car to a 4x4. You'll need a valid driving licence and a credit card for the security deposit. Read the insurance terms carefully before signing, particularly what's excluded for tyres, undercarriage, and damage on unpaved roads.
Renting a Scooter. Scooter rental is available in Praia, including in the Palmarejo district. You'll typically need your driving licence, passport, and a deposit. Scooters suit city riding and short trips; the steep mountain roads and long distances make them a harder choice for crossing the island.
Road Conditions. The main road north from Praia via Assomada to Tarrafal is in good condition and largely paved or cobbled. Minor roads into the mountains are narrow, steep, and full of hairpin bends, and some rural tracks are rough. Rockslides can occur after heavy rain during the rainy season.
Driving Tips. Drive carefully on mountain roads, where visibility around bends is limited and alugueres stop suddenly to pick up passengers. Watch for pedestrians and animals on rural roads. Avoid mountain driving after dark, and if you're prone to motion sickness, take something before the winding stretches.
Section 5: The Airport Bus & Ferries
Two more options worth knowing about.
The Airport Bus. Local buses connect the airport with central Praia for a fare of around 100 CVE, a fraction of the taxi fare. It's a good option if you're travelling light and arriving during the day. Check the current route and hours on arrival.
Ferries from Praia. Praia's port is the island's hub for inter-island ferries run by CV Interilhas, with connections to neighbouring islands including Fogo, Brava, and Maio, as well as the longer circular route that links Santiago with Boa Vista, Sal, and the northern islands. Schedules are seasonal and irregular, so read our guide to inter-island travel in Cape Verde before planning a crossing.
Section 6: Which Transport Should You Choose?
The short version, by type of trip.
Alugueres. Very low cost, moderate flexibility since you wait for them to fill, and a basic level of comfort. Best for travelling between the main towns on a budget.
Taxis in Praia. Low cost for short trips, high flexibility, and good comfort. Best for getting around the capital and for evenings out.
Private Driver for the Day. Higher cost per vehicle but reasonable when shared, high flexibility, and very comfortable. Best for seeing a lot in one day without driving.
Rental Car or Scooter. Moderate to high cost, maximum flexibility, and high comfort. Best for independent exploring of mountain villages, trailheads, and remote beaches.
Our Recommendation. For most visitors, the best balance is a combination: alugueres for the long journeys between Praia, Assomada, and Tarrafal; taxis within Praia and at night; and either a rental car or a private driver for a day or two in the mountains. That gives you the savings and the local experience without spending your whole trip waiting for vans to fill.
Continue Planning Your Trip
For an overview of the island, start with our First-Timer's Guide to Santiago. For the classic journey north, read The Praia to Tarrafal Road Trip. And to decide where to base yourself along the way, see Where to Stay in Santiago.
